After leaving the comfort of my campsite in the beautiful Dolomites, I head north to make the most of my time away whilst trying to avoid the worst of the weather. Although this post will make sense on it's own, you may be interested in how I got this far, if so please take a look at my previous two posts:
A Scenic Route to Switzerland - Riding in the French Ardennes, Vosges Mountains and The Black Forest
Day 8 - Friday
121 miles
Colfosco (Italy) - Umhausen (Austria)
Despite being awake by 7am, I lie in my tent listening to the rain hammering down until gone 8. Eventually I decide it's not going to stop, no matter how many podcasts I listen to or chapters I read, so I get up to pack everything away. I've only been here three nights and I'm living in a tent, but somehow stuff manages to get spread around all over the place and packing up always takes longer than it does after a single night. It's not made easy by the continuous rain which forces me to load everything I can into my panniers whilst kneeling in my tent. At least this way it all goes away dry. I leave the tent until last and, when there's a slight lull in the rain at about 9, the tent goes in the bag and I'm ready for the off!
I don't normally like leaving my riding kit lying around on a campsite but I took a chance here and left it in the drying room overnight. It is all still there and is nice and dry, so after paying up I get kitted up and get going. This is the most expensive campsite I have stayed on by some margin at nearly €30/night but with it's stunning surroundings and easy access to local facilities I'm not at all surprised. I'm sure there are other campsites in the area but I wouldn't mind staying here again, hopefully in better weather!
By the time I'm riding off the campsite it's raining again and it doesn't seem to matter which forecast I look at, it's due to be set in for several days. I could get out of it by heading south from here but I'll only have to ride back through the rain later, it's due to get colder as well and I have heard reports of snowfall in the Alps, I don't want to get caught up a mountain in that!
When I left home a week ago I did have thoughts of riding in Slovenia, but the weather doesn't look any better over that way (east) and my two day break here does mean travelling that much further from home will make for some long days later. Sensible Andy wins the internal debate and I head north towards Austria.
I follow the main roads to Vipetino stopping only for fuel and a drink. There are smaller roads over the mountains but the rain seems to be getting heavier and they won't be a lot of fun in this weather. There is a long traffic jam on the way into Vipetino and I'm not sure what the rules are on filtering in Italy. I sit tight until a group of Italian riders come past and I decide to tag on the back.
My waterproofs do a stellar job and by the time I get to Vipetino the rain has stopped, there's even the odd patch of blue in the sky. I take the opportunity to get back into the mountains. First up is Passo Giovo Jaufenpass to San Leonardo followed by Timmelsjochstraße into Austria via Austria's highest border crossing. I struggle slightly on a section of the Passo Giovo Jaufenpass which has been dug up for resurfacing. I end up riding for over a mile sliding around on what is little more than a mud track - I am not an off road rider by any stretch of the imagination but I'm surprised how quickly I start to feel comfortable on it and even catch up another rider on a Tiger 900 who waves me past!
Now... Having said the other day that the Stelvio isn't my idea of the best riding road I've ever been on, I have been wondering what is. These two roads back to back jump straight to the top of that list. Even though the summits are in cloud and I cant see much at the top, this 60 miles of riding is without question the best I've done on this trip, probably the best I've ever done. I'm sure there are other roads out there. I can hear the experienced tourers (and a few armchair experts) screaming at their iPads 'But what about the whatchamacallit in thing-ummy-bob.' Well I haven't been there yet, so this is the best I've done so far.
These two roads alone take most of the day because I stop so often to enjoy what views there are. The mix of hairpins and open road with sweeping bends keeps me guessing what's next, and most definitely keep the grin planted on my face.
As if the roads aren't enough, Timmelsjochstraße is home to the Top Mountain Motorcycle Museum, which looms large on the mountainside just after I cross the border into Austria.
The museum is home to one of the largest collections of classic motorcycles in Europe and has been on my 'to visit list' for a long time. What makes the whole place even more impressive is that, in 2021, the museum and around 330 bikes which it housed were lost to a huge fire. It was back open within 10 months and now holds over 580 motorcycles, most of which are owned by the museum but there were a lot loaned from collectors all over the world to get it back open, some of which are still in there. It has got to be one of the most varied collections I have ever seen, with bikes from all over the world and there really is something for everyone in there.
A couple of hours hardly seems like enough, and the pictures here show a fraction of what's on display. I can't take it all in in one visit though so I eventually call it a day and head down the mountain into Austria. The Timmelsjoch continues to deliver but I am soon in a town where I stop in a Lidl for some supplies. Whilst putting my shopping away on the bike I see a sign for a campsite so decide to give it a go. Once again I hit gold and stumble upon yet another stunning spot to stay for a night. I guess I'd be hard pushed not to find stunning spots in this area! Another bonus is that, now I am dropping out of the mountains, it's quite a bit warmer than Italy was.
When I book in the lady on reception tells me about the local area and, although I don't plan to stay for long, I might take in some of her suggestions on the way out tomorrow. Later in the evening I chat too a German couple who are here on bikes for a few days, they offer lots of recommendations as well, some of which I have already done, some I'll do tomorrow and some will have to wait for another trip.
I've discovered that on trips like this you simply can't see everything, you are going to miss places and things that would be great to see. I've had to learn to prioritise and not get hung up on what I'm missing, if I don't I'd travel so slowly I'd still be in Northern France. I'd rather keep moving and experience different countries, regions, landscapes and, of course, people. All the experiences I've missed this time just give me even more reason to come back in the future!
I fall asleep fairly early, it's been a busy day but one of the best of the trip so far. I'm on the home leg now but I'm in no rush so as long as I can stay in front of the wet weather sweeping north through mainland Europe I'll take my time and enjoy what I can.
Day 9 - Saturday
140 miles
Umhausen (Austria) - Kressbronn (Germany)
After breakfast and coffee I'm on my way by 10. I'm in no rush and have no real plans for the day. The sun is shining so I opt to head up the mountainside in search of the waterfall I was told about last night. Stuibenfall is only 10 minutes away and is the tallest waterfall in Tyrol. It turns out to be well worth the time, the views to the valley are as spectacular as any I've seen yet. This is why I make an effort to chat to people on campsites, you never know what you'll find out about - I'd never have seen this if I'd kept myself to myself!
Back down the hill, I ride past the campsite and stop for petrol and some cash in Umhausen. I'm only really using the cash for campsites but I'm running a bit low.
I have two options heading north from here, Fernpass or the smaller Hahntennjoch. I choose the latter and climb a narrow road which winds its way up the side of the mountain. There's a good chance this will be the last of the real mountainous riding on this trip and I'm pleased to end it on a high.
At the top I park up for some pictures. I can't believe my luck, I have a perfect spot for some snaps of the bike and spectacular back drop. I ask a passing hiker to take a picture with me in it and hand him my phone, he doesn't have a clue how to use a smart phone and after a minute or so of waving it around hands it back with no pictures. I grab someone else but as I do so, a dozen or so German bikers pull up and surround my bike. We get a nice picture anyway but I can't help being a little disappointed as I ride off thinking about what could have been.
From the Hahntennjoch I turn onto the 198, a bigger road that weaves it's way through the valley towards the German border. When I stop next to the river for a drink and something to eat I sit underneath a bridge to shelter from the sun. As I drop further out of the mountains it's getting hot again. Yet again I am struck by how clear the water is here.
Now call me sad if you like, but I have a Google Docs file with a list of places that would be cool to visit or ride in Europe, when I see something on social media or TV I make a note so that when I'm on this kind of trip I can check back to see if there's anything in the area that I'd like to go and see. On that list is Schloss Neuschwanstein (Neuschwanstein Castle).
This 19th century castle in Bavaria (I'm in Germany now) is said to have inspired Walt Disney for the castle in his company's logo and I can see why. I think most of the pictures of it must be taken with drones or from a long way of with a better lens than my phone has, but even from the distance I'm looking at it from, it's an impressive sight sticking out the trees on the side of the hill. After a few pictures and another drink, it's early afternoon and the temperature is still ramping up, I get back on the bike and start riding west.
It's soon time to find a campsite and I follow the signs to one on the shore of Bodensee (Lake Constance). It's not really my kind of site. It's huge and mostly full of camper vans and static caravans, but I've had enough for today so pay the man his money and get directed to my pitch. The tents are crammed in so tight I barely have room for my bike and tent on the pitch and it's just as well it's sheltered because there isn't room around the tent for the guy ropes!
After setting up I walk the hundred yards or so to the lake. It's breathtakingly beautiful and I'm straight in for a swim. This makes up for the rest of the site not being my kind of thing.
After the swim I have a shower and decide to eat in the restaurant on site before turning in for the night.
While I'm waiting for my dinner I book my return tunnel crossing. I give myself three and a half days to do the 500 or so miles back to Calais. That's easy riding and will give me chance to do a bit more exploring on the way.
The Route
This is only an approximation of my actual route which shows where the main stops were. I'll upload the GPX track of the complete route at the end.
I hope you have enjoyed what you have read so far. In the final instalment I take in Germany's Black Forest, Luxembourg and Belgium on my way back to Calais. You can read about my ride home here.
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